gardenorama

Saturday, February 12, 2005

Today's purchases

Of course the seminar room at Swanson's is at the back of the nursery so I had to walk past tables of primroses, iris, and hellebores on my way out....not to mention they are having a fabulous sale on pots (50% off - got a 13" pot for $25). I bought 2 4" primroses (dark purple and burgundy), a red 4" cyclamen, and a 4" dark purple Ranunculus 'Bloomingdale.' After reading about reds in Easton's book I've been wanting to add some color along the walkways along the front and back of the house. I was tempted by the hellebores but will wait until tomorrow's seminar...I know I'll be tempted by the hyacinths again - they smelled so good. Thankfully, the sale lasts until 6 March so I have two more pay periods to draw from. ;) weeeeee!

Japanese Maples

I attended Dan Gilchrist's seminar at Swanson's Nursery about pruning Japanese Maples. It's amazing what you can get for free these days. I took in so many ideas, but the primary notes that I took are:

  • Help the tree become the shape that it wants to become.
  • Be aware of air flow and sun between/throughout branches/leaves.
  • Don't hurt the collar tissue; create "belly buttons."
  • February and March are the best times to prune, before buds form. Otherwise, June through August is good so that you can see the leaf clouds and direct their formations.
  • To train/redirect energy from one branch to another, the branch that you want to keep must be at least 1/3 the width of the branch you want to cut otherwise you'll get "the fright" - a whole bunch of smaller branches rather than redirecting the growth into the intended branch. You may need to aim to keep a lower branch that is wider if the upper branch is too small.
  • By keeping trees pruned decrease chances of disease and bug infestations.
General guidelines for pruning:
  1. Health - remove broken and dead branches.
  2. Aesthetics begin inside/out, bottom/up and keep moving around the tree as you prune.
When you (and the tree) consider what shape to aim for think about the perspectives that people will see the tree from: is it on a rockery and will be seen primarily from below? is it in a corner? is it in the middle of a courtyard that exposes all of its sides?

Also, consider how you want the leaf clouds to form. Think about how the tree will fill out and where you want to direct growth.

Wednesday, February 09, 2005

Wish list

I think I would like to incorporate the following plants into my garden (this will grow as i learn more).

  • black mondo grass (ophiopogon planiscapus 'nigrescens') - slow creeper (thus a bit more expensive). sleek, glossy, year-round good looks. 8-10 inches high. deep ebony blades. effective in containers, edging walkways, or alongside stone or water. have also seen it used as ground cover under trees (e.g., big patches of it in the Japanese Garden in Seattle).

blooming update

still trying to identify my plants...

from photos in books i believe the following are currently blooming:

  • sweet box (sarcococca humilis) - in particular the bush by the front gate has many white flowers that smell great as we return from dog walks in the morning. book says it's a vanilla scent, i thought it was jasminey. there are 3 or 4 of these in the front yard. Should grow 18-24 inches. Also has shiny blue-black berries.
  • clematis (not yet identified the specifics) - beginning to bloom on the south side trellis.
I need to post photos!

Reds

From Plant Life: Growing a Garden in the Pacific Northwest by Valerie Easton.

winter reds

  • bergenia - broad leaves have reddish tinge
  • pieris and photinia - new foliage is bright scarlet
  • camellia japonica 'Glen 40' - double flowers of strong, clear red
  • C. sasanqua 'yuletide' - rich, red blossoms w/yeloow stamens
  • erysimum cheiri 'carmine king' and 'vulcan' (wallflowers) - bloom early in bronze and crimson
  • early red tulips - 'red wing' 'prominence' 'red shine'
  • poppy 'beauty of livermere' - blood-red
  • red peonis
  • cool effect to pair reds with "silvers of summer - artemisia, lamb's ears, curry plant, and senecio"
summer reds
darker maroon or wine tones:
  • c. atrosanguineus - chocolate cosmos
  • knautia macedonica - little button flowers, 6-8 weeks bloom time
  • dahlia 'bishop of llandaff'
numerous small blossoms can create a "haze" of color
  • potentilla 'gibson's scarlet'
  • crocosmia 'lucifer'
all out color:
  • dahlias 'summer night' 'arabian night'
  • red cannas
  • red snapdragons
  • red roses 'dusky maiden' 'mr. lincoln'
  • red rugosas - shrubby

Winter plants

From Plant Life: Growing a Garden in the Pacific Northwest by Valerie Easton.

Sturdy evergreens to fill in the mid-layer:

  • magnolia grandiflora 'victoria' - broad, glossy green leaves, backed with copper fuzz - good for vases and wreaths
  • daphne odora 'marginata' - sweetly perfumed
  • viburnum davidii - leather-leaved, blue fruited
  • sasa veitchii - little running bamboo with tawny trim
  • osmanthus heterophyllus 'goshiki' - gold-splotched leaves
  • other mahonias
  • callicarpa 'beautyberry' - metallic lavender berries
  • pernettya mucronata - small evergreen w/winter fruits of pink, red, white
  • witch hazels
  • prunus subhirtella 'autumnalis' - winter-flowering cherry
other suggestions (for enjoying garden throughout winter):
  • "tall cedar fence w/a row of black bamboo in front, pruned up to reveal the notched black canes, is a stunning, year-round screen than provides plenty of verticality, takes up very little space on the ground, and enlivens the garden with its lovely sway and rustle."
  • plant fragrant treasures along pathways or in pots by the front door
  • winter-blooming iris (I. unguicularis), hellebores, vanillal-scented sarcococca - add the surprise of flowers on bleak days
  • sasanqua camellia espaliered by the front door that opens shell-pink flowers in mid-nov and often last through christmas